RIP CURRENTS

Rip currents

Rip Currents cause 80% of surf rescues. A rip current is a body of water moving out to sea. It usually occurs when a channel forms between sandbars and large waves have built up water, which then returns to sea causing a drag effect out to sea.The larger the surf the stronger the rip. Rip currents are dangerous as they can carry a weak or tired swimmer in to deep water. Rip currents fall in to three types:

Permanent

The permanent nature is due to the ocean bottom and prevailing conditions changing very little. Rip speed and power is proportional to surf size due to the extra water moving. Rock projections, groynes,drainage pipes or piers force lateral currents seaward to form permanent currents. Rivers and tidal outflow are also permanent type.

Flash rips

The flash rip is temporary in nature for any given location. It is caused by:

- Stormy, heavy surf build-up with long wave sets increasing

  the volume of water above sea level.

- Sudden change in offshore sandbars/banks. It will appear

  suddenly and usually withought warning and is relatively

  short lived.

Travelling rip

A travelling rip current is propelled along the beach front by a strong lateral current in the prevailing wave direction. These rips go away from the waves that feed them. A travelling rip may travel over large segments of beach before dissipating. These can cause havoc with bathing crowds, moving them along the beach and pulling large numbers offshore.

Methods of identifying a rip current

1. Discoloured water, due to sand stirred off the bottom.

2. Foam on the surface extending beyond the break.

3. Waves breaking further out on both sides of the rip.

4. Debris floating seaward.

5. Rippled appearance, when water arround is generally

    calm. The lack of surf attracts unsuspecting beach users.

6. Darker deeper water.

Escape from a rip current

If caught in a rip,DONT PANIC!

The tired or limited ability swimmer should ride it out from the beach, then swim parallel to the shore for 30 to 40 metres to where the waves are breaking and come straight back to shore.

Stronger swimmers after assessing the rip width should swim at a 45 degree angle across the rip current. After a short swim it pays to probe with the legs to see if a sand bar has formed close to the edge of the rip.